Sandi's Quick Take
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Dewy = moist, cushiony shine from surface hydration + emollients.
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Glowy = lit-from-within radiance from even tone, smooth texture, and light diffusion—without overt shine.
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For melanin-rich, or aging skin, the sweet spot is controlled dew + true glow: hydrated, protected, even, and camera-ready.
Why This Distinction Matters on Melanin-Rich, Aging Skin
Melanin-rich complexions are more prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and can show dullness when texture isn’t refined or when sunscreen is skipped. As we age, transepidermal water loss rises and cell turnover slows, so chasing a “wet” look (dewy) can slide into greasy—which emphasizes pores and fine lines. True glow comes from tone, texture, and protection—not oil.
How to tell if you are Dewy or Glowy
Think of light as your mirror:
Finish | How the Light Looks | What You See Up Close | Best For |
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Dewy | Noticeable surface shine; hotspots on forehead/cheeks | Cushiony, slightly moist texture; can look oily in photos if overdone | Dry or combo skin needing “freshness,” editorial looks, winter skin |
Glowy | Even, soft radiance; light seems to come from within | Smooth texture, tight pore look, even tone; minimal T-zone shine | Everyday wear, on-camera, mature skin, humid climates |
Simple at-home test: Stand by a window with your phone on video. If your T-zone has bright hotspots that you want to blot, you’re in dewy territory. If your skin looks uniformly bright with minimal hotspots, that’s glowy.
How to Get Each Finish (and Keep It Flattering)
To Achieve Dewy (without crossing into greasy)
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Hydrate first: Layer a humectant serum so skin holds water (look for hyaluronic acid).
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Seal lightly: Use a thin emollient (plum or squalane oil) only on high points—cheekbones, temples, outer jaw.
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Strategic sheen: Opt for cream blush/highlighter. Skip heavy oils on the T-zone.
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Flash-check: If your phone flash blows out the center of the face, tap with a tissue—then re-pat highlighter on the tops of cheeks only.
IKNOW Skincare pro stack for controlled dew:
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Glow Booster+ Vitamin C & E Serum (with ferulic & hyaluronic acid) for hydrated brightness pre-moisturizer.
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Cellular Retreat 100% Pure & Natural Plum Oil tapped just on high points for a soft, cushiony finish.
To Achieve Glowy (radiant, not shiny)
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Even tone: Daily antioxidant serum (Vitamin C + E + ferulic) to brighten and support collagen.
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Refine texture: Gentle enzymes/AHAs 1–3× weekly to smooth without over-exfoliating (crucial for melanin-rich skin).
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Diffuse, don’t dazzle: Choose satin or soft-matte base, then add pinpoint cream highlighter only where bone structure lifts.
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Set smart: Translucent powder just on the center of the forehead, sides of the nose, and chin to control hotspots.
IKNOW Skincare pro stack for true glow:
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Glow Booster+ Vitamin C & E Serum (AM) to visibly brighten and defend.
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Very Necessary SPF 40 Moisturizer for sheer, no-cast protection that keeps glow intact.
Non-Negotiable for Both Finishes: Daily SPF
Radiance means nothing without protection. UV exposure deepens hyperpigmentation and accelerates collagen breakdown. For melanin-rich or aging skin, a cosmetically elegant SPF that plays well under makeup is the glow guarantee.
IKNOW pick: Very Necessary SPF 40 Moisturizer—lightweight, makeup-friendly, and designed to avoid white cast.
Pro Application Blueprint (Sandi’s 5-Minute Face)
For Dewy Daytime
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Vitamin C serum → light moisturizer → SPF 40.
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Sheer skin tint (satin finish).
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Tap plum oil on cheekbones only.
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Brow gel + conditioning lip oil.
For Everyday Glow
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Vitamin C serum → SPF 40.
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Soft-matte or satin foundation; thin layer, buffed well.
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Spot-conceal; keep under-eye thin to avoid creasing.
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Translucent powder: center-only.
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Cream highlighter: orbital rim/top of cheekbones; stop before the nose for a lifted look.
FAQ
Is “glow” possible if I’m oily or live in humidity?
Yes—control shine at the center and keep your radiance on the perimeter with pinpoint highlighter. Use oil-controlling powder only where needed; resist matting the whole face.
Will exfoliation cause hyperpigmentation on melanin-rich skin?
Over-exfoliation can trigger irritation that leads to dark marks. Use gentle enzymes/AHAs, limit frequency, and always pair with daily SPF.
Do I need retinoids for glow?
Retinoids improve texture and tone over time—key for sustained glow as we age. Start low, go slow, moisturize well, and protect with SPF.
The IKNOW Glow Game Plan (Sandi’s Picks)
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AM: Cleanse → Glow Booster+ Vitamin C & E Serum (with ferulic & HA) → Very Necessary SPF 40 Moisturizer.
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PM: Gentle cleanse → Enzyme polish 1–3×/week → Hydrating serum → Cellular Retreat 100% Pure & Natural Plum Oil (seal where needed).
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Makeup: Choose satin bases, set center-only, and spotlight your bone structure.
Radiance is a strategy, not a finish filter. For melanin-rich, pro-aging skin, the winning look is hydrated, even, and protected—glow that lasts all day, on-camera and in real life.
I’m Sandi Rice—Pro Makeup Artist & Aesthetician. I specialize in all skin tones and types that performs under real-world lighting. For personalized routines with IKNOW Skincare, I’m here to help you design a finish that fits your life; dewy when you want it, glowy always.